Puesto que el año anterior nos salió tan bien (y tan barata) la experiencia de irnos en plan familiar de viaje, este año, Sister San, Prima Espe y una misma decidimos repetir. Esta vez, a Roma, que es algo asà como La Meca familiar. Se nos cayó Nane – que ya ha estado dos veces en la Ciudad Eterna y que, además, no pudo pillar vacaciones- que no es de la familia, pero como si lo fuera (siempre aceptamos nuevos miembros en la tribu, somos gente dada a la adopción) y la echamos de menos, sobre todo a la hora de orientarnos con el mapa. Como ella no comparte genes con nosotras, carece de nuestra tendencia natural a perdernos. Menos mal que nos conocemos y tuvimos la prudencia de pedir consejo a mi tÃo que, como también nos conoce y conoce Roma, nos montó cuatro itinerarios (uno por dÃa) a prueba de gente inútil para orientarse. Lo mejor de su Manual Para Estar Cuatro DÃas En Roma Y Perder El Menor Tiempo Posible Buscando La Calle Correcta, fue la introducción-recomendación:
Se aconseja no llevar bolsos y, si se hace, que sea lo más pequeño y herméticamente cerrado posible. La documentación nunca en el bolso, sino en cualquier parte que sea súper-segura. Lo mismo el dinero. Allà no puedes fiarte ni de tu padre. La ciudad está bajo los cuidados de San Dimas, el patrono de los ladrones.
Nos encantó porque no tiene desperdicio, pero aquà mi tÃo patinó un poco: primera porque vivimos en Barcelona, que no estará bajo la protección de San Dimas, pero vaya si podrÃa. Y la segunda porque robarnos a nosotras es a) una pérdida de tiempo (no tenemos un duro) y b) pelÃn peligroso, como podrÃa confirmar la rumana que trató de meter mano en el bolso de mi prima y no sólo no se llevó ni un triste euro sino que encima recibió un sopapo. Mi prima mide metro y medio, pero es todo pura mala leche concentrada.
DÃa 1
Plaza del Popolo- Plaza Spagna.
Tiempo necesario: muy poco para personas normales. A nosotras nos llevó cuatro horas. No sólo nos perdimos, es que hicimos unas pocas paradas para capuccino.
Metro: parada de Flaminio (está al lado de la Villa Borghese, que vale mucho la pena… pero como habÃa poco tiempo, lo dejaremos para la próxima vez).
Plaza del Popolo: Pues eso, una plaza. Tiene uno de los muchos obeliscos que los romanos – los de las sandalias y las falditas, se entiende, que eran gente antigua pero ya practicaban el expolio- se trajeron de Egipto y que luego, a lo largo de los siglos, el gobernante de turno ha ido cambiando de ubicación para dejar más monas sus obras públicas. Tiene dos iglesias iguales, una junto a la otra, que se ve que es algo que tenÃa que hacernos gracia. Pero como somos personas prácticas, a nosotras nos pareció bastante tonto. ¿Por qué necesitas dos, para empezar? Si era por falta de aforo, ¿no habrÃa sido más práctico hacer una bien grande? Y es que, para rematar el asunto, las construyeron a la vez. Que si hubiese sido porque una se les quedó pequeña, pase. En todo caso, ya que quieres hacer dos ¿para qué iguales si en la variedad está el gusto? ¿para evitar competencia desleal? La religión ya es algo bastante confuso a veces (con vÃrgenes que se quedan embarazadas de palomas y cosas de esas) para encima añadirle estas cosas.
(En la foto se puede apreciar que hacia un asco de dÃa).
Jardines del Pincio: Se llega desde la plaza, por unas escaleras que suben hasta arriba. Son muy bonitos y todo eso, pero salir de allà fue absurdamente complicado y terminamos recorriendo el parque de norte a sur y de este a oeste sin más objetivo que salir de allÃ, a poder ser antes de que anocheciera y salieran los hombres lobo o el fantasma furioso de Lucrecia Borgia o lo que tengan por ahÃ. De acuerdo que nosotras somos fatales leyendo mapas, pero es que aquel mapa estaba hecho con una mala follá que no es normal.
(Las fotos que hicimos aquà no valen la pena porque estábamos hartas del parque ése y sólo querÃamos largarnos).
Trinitá dei Monti: Cuando uno consigue encontrar el camino que lleva desde el Pincio hasta aquÃ, pues es muy fácil de llegar. Por fuera, la iglesia es muy bonita. Por dentro no la vimos porque a esas horas ya estaba cerrada: fue el precio a pagar por perdernos en el Pincio. De todas formas, será por iglesias en Roma… La gracia de ésta es que, en sus tiempos, estaba ahà arriba, un poco incomunicada (a mà me lo vas a contar) y para remediar el asunto, hicieron las famosas escalinatas de la plaza Spagna. Mi tÃo, en un arranque de amor paternal y tial (bueno, amor de tÃo) nos organizó el mapa para que no tuviéramos que subir la escalinata, sólo bajarla que cansa menos. El resultado fue a) que nos perdimos llegando hasta allà y nos pegamos una paliza a caminar, como ya he señalado y b) que todas nuestras fotos de la plaza Spagna están al revés: todo el mundo fotografÃa la plaza desde abajo, con la fuente en primer plano… Y nosotras le hicimos la foto desde arriba, con la fuente al fondo asà que tenemos que dar un montón de explicaciones. Es por estas cosas que yo soy partidaria de comprar postales: la foto siempre está bien hecha y, por si alguien no reconoce el monumento, en el dorso está anotado de qué se trata.
Plaza Spagna: echándole un vistazo a nuestras respectivas guÃas turÃsticas, nos dimos cuenta de que existen dos escuelas de pensamiento respecto a las plazas romanas. Una defiende que la de Spagna es la más bonita y la otra, que lo es la Plaza Navona. No es por cuestiones nacionalistas ni nada de eso, pero a mà ésta me gusta muchÃsimo más. Es más enana, cierto, y es más fácil morir atropellada (claro que eso es relativamente fácil en cualquier parte de Roma) y con la fuente de la Barca Bernini no es que se diera mucho curro. Pero es que me gusta justo por eso. Por eso y porque puedes entrar dentro de la fuente, que es algo que me hace mucha gracia. También puedes beber agua, pero eso ya lo dejo para los aventureros, que yo soy una turista aprensiva. Si alguien tiene pasta (mucha pasta), puede tirar todo recto, por VÃa Condotti y gastarse en un par de zapatos lo que yo pago de alquiler en dos meses.
Embajada de España ante la Santa Sede: está al lado de la plaza y como nos la puso mi tÃo en el itinerario, pues fuimos y la miramos. Tampoco es que nos emocionara mucho (a él sÃ, porque se ve que es la sede diplomática más antigua de Roma, lo cual dice mucho de España) pero convinimos en que estaba bien saber dónde refugiarnos si nos metÃamos en algún lÃo cuando fuéramos al Vaticano.
Después, se desanda el camino, de vuelta a la plaza y se pilla el metro en Spagna. Todos los itinerarios empezaban y acababan en estaciones de metro porque mi tÃo, que es sangre de nuestra sangre, no se fÃa de que sepamos leer mapas pero sà de que sepamos pillar metros.
Y hasta aquà por hoy. Por hoy, sà porque pienso seguir dando el coñazo un ratito con el tema. De hecho, mañana será peor: hoy es mi último dÃa de vacaciones invernales y estoy en pleno sÃndrome pre-post-vacacional, que es como el post vacacional pero mejor porque, aunque estés sufriendo te quedan apenas unas horas de vacaciones al menos sigues de vacaciones.
Pues, nada, por aquà volveré a leer la continuación y a morirme de envidia por no poder estar yo en Roma.
Besos
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30 de January, 2008
Sólo se cayó Nane? Pues qué suerte!. Ah claro! del grupo viajero, desde luego. Del resto de familia, alguien más se cayó, pero no se echa de menos a nadie más… Bravo!
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nunca le han dicho a tu hermana que es un medio clon de leonor watling?
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Uys, pues no, pero fijo que le va a encantar saberlo, jejeje
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6 de February, 2008
Nunca me lo han dicho y la verdad no me lo creo, pero gracias. Lo cierto es que odio esa foto y la mayorÃa en las que salgo
san
10 de February, 2008
Sà caÃ, pero por cuestiones prácticas (dos veces en menos de un año, seria demasio pa el body). Aunque es un grupo abierto, todos nos podemos apuntar. A esos precios el año que viene me apunto. Por favor un destino con un poco de calorcito y sol. Y que no haya ido en unos añitos también estarÃa bien. De todas formas roma siempre será una ciudad encantada, preciosa y romántica. No descarto volver.
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